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I also have two other Acer monitors, AL1706b, one dead as a doornail, and the other comes on sometimes and will display but has wavy picture. There are three other "IC" (I think they are?) on the board. ![]() Acer monitor troubleshooting series#U101 (on VGA board, looks like 1117 series 3.3V) lit or not lit same = 3.2 / 0 / 1.8 (numbers on these two components U501 & U502 are Nikos P2504BDG QN19K0501) ![]() Acer monitor troubleshooting how to#I don't know how to check much else but I did check a few other things,Įach of these I put black lead on fat tab, and the readings are left to right as if fat tab is up. (BTW, behavior is the same whether I have the actual LCD panel connected to the VGA board via the ribbon cable or not) Also, obviously capable of staying on since they can display the 98 system usually, they just don't seem to want to stay on for some odd reason on anything else. Pretty much same behavior, also visually inspected bulbs and they look 100% good on the ends. I have also tried swapping out the ccfls one at a time from other monitors and a laptop monitor. Usually I can do re-caps but these seem to be a different animal. I've gotten one to display an XP system and stay on once, and flash quickly a few times, but almost always it does nothing. I can disconnect and reconnect the VGA and it will usually come up and display and stay on. Acer monitor troubleshooting windows#The curious exception to this, is if I connect one to a Windows 98 system set to 640x480 display. If the VGA is then disconnected from the computer, it will again light up and show the "no signal" box, then go dark again. If connected to a source when turned on, or simply connected to a source after turned on, the light will go blue, but nothing will come up on screen. The light goes from blue to amber at this point. When turned on, if not connected to a VGA source, they will come on with the ACER logo fine, lamps light right up, and then show a "no signal" box. (So basically, all caps on both boards are either new, or verified good.) So I have one board that has been mostly recapped and the ones I didn't replace test good when removed. I removed the two smallest from one of the boards, the only two I didn't do on the one board that I did all the others, and I tested them with the cap function and they were good too. (I then tested the removed cap that looked fine on the 2nd board with cap function on a matco meter I have and it was actually fine.)ĭoing any of the caps has made no difference. And on the other I did the one big cap anyway. I replaced all but the two smallest on the board that had the one bad one on it. One had one clearly going bad cap, the other one's power board looked totally fine. On the two that I've been focusing on, they do the same thing. If important I can plug each of them in again and double check. They all basically do the same thing, or I can't recall but a few might not power up at all. I get the second flash to black issue on these mostly. ![]()
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